ITRI – The Herald Magazine review

The Herald Magazine (14/03/09). Review by Ron Mackenna

EFFORTLESS IS MORE

Focusing on uncomplicated yet compelling cuisine, this Edinburgh Italian might not be hip – but it sure is happening.

To Edinburgh then. Fast, alone and snubbed. Not even a request on Facebook drums up anyone to join me for pasta in the capital. What is it about eating out on Sunday nights?

Or is it eating in Edinburgh? Or eating out with me? Gulp. Anyway, it`s with a heavy heart I pull into Gilmore Place and spot the somewhat tired Italian exterior of Itri. Hmm. At least 100 miles there and back for this. Am I mad? There`s certainly madness in the swirly Artex patterns on those walls, in those interior fake seventies-style arches, in the drabness of the decor. And there are uninviting empty tables all over the shop, one of those dividing walls separating the restaurant into mildly inhabited and completely, eerily deserted sections, and a slight gloom to the lighting.

I might have mentioned this before folks, but it`s not all breathless glamour this job.

What else do we have then? A couple of enthusiastic Italian guys nipping to and fro delivering the chat and the smiles and the dishes. Ho hum. A long table of Scots eating bowls of linguine with seafood, mussels clattering off plates, prawns being snapped, a table behind me with two women chattering. And wait a minute… those are Italian voices. And so are those down at the window, four more ladies speaking Italian.

Now, I`ve stopped moaning and start eating…

This plate of bruschetta, earthy and served up on an enormous scale but the vegetables haven`t just been slapped on the doughy Italian bread without thought. The peppers have been sautéed till soft, sweet and delicious, as they always should be, the courgettes roasted in the oven till they have that tanniny bite and tomatoes come with a dressing and, crucially, flavour. Hmm. Hold on. Almost anyone can put together a decent plate of bruschetta.

Let’s not jump to any conclusions – because the pasta fresca tonight, the waiter has just said, is ravioli with ricotta and rucola. Ricotta? Bland. Not even technically a cheese but the curds or whey scooped from the boiled milk, pressed into moulds. It`s big in Italy and made by Italians in their homes all over the world. My Nonna used to make it in here wee kitchen in Glasgow.

Nope, you`re right. I`m not keen. At all. I`ve ordered it, though, because the waiter promises it is made right here, and he`s enthusiastic. And it is proper, freshly made ravioli with a lovely texture, a simple and mild filling and a rockety tang which only really springs to life when tossed in the melted butter and sage.

It`s actually proper food, this. Simple.

Much greater than the sum of its part.

A fact underlined spectacularly by the main course of pork viminale. Viminale? Search me. Is it an area in Rome? I screw up my face at the mention of potatoes and vegetables so the waiter winks and bring a side salad. Yes, I raise my eyebrows when I see the pale pork chops on the plate so the waiter smiles and simply walks away.

I will tell you this. Right now.

The chops themselves are nothing special. What makes this whole dish special is the firm, not hard, broccoli, the lone clove of fried garlic, the seared chilli sitting on the plate and the mixing of all their juices into one absolutely fabulous flavour. Broccoli and garlic is one of the great unsung combinations on earth. We used to have it at home preserved in jars of olive oil. Here, with pork and chilli tossed into the mix, it is simply outstanding.

As this meal has been.

Simple, but outstanding, the way food is in Italy.

Now, hands up.

Of course I didn`t just drive through here and pick a random Italian restaurant. I`m not that mad. I was told Itri was proper Italian food and that`s exactly what it is.

Okay, the decor`s nothing special, the restaurant looks a bit tired inside, but they know what they’re doing. It’s not showy, it’s not even slightly flash, it’s just genuine.

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Written by Itri on 20 October 2009 | Posted in All News Entries